Subject: Re: Stuck Filters
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From: PeterN <"peter,newdelete"@deleteverizon.net>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.digital
Subject: Re: Stuck Filters
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 13:17:54 -0500
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On 11/6/2017 4:27 PM, Savageduck wrote:
> On Nov 6, 2017, PeterN wrote
> (in article<otqb0n0l5s@news4.newsguy.com>):
> 
>> On 11/6/2017 12:21 PM, Savageduck wrote:
>>> On Nov 6, 2017, PeterN wrote
>>> (in article<otpvla02a2u@news7.newsguy.com>):
>>>
>>>> On 11/5/2017 1:11 AM, Savageduck wrote:
>>>
>>> <<Snip>>
>>>
>>>>> Just go with a filter wrench, that is what they are designed for, and
>>>>> forget
>>>>> the hare-brained schemes.
>>>>
>>>> Yep.
>>>> The only filters I now use are: ND; variable ND; CP; and a variable fog.
>>>> I carry filter wrenches in my bag at all times, although I haven't had a
>>>> stuck filter in over ten years.
>>>
>>> When it comes to screw on filters I have ND, CPF, and only one Variable ND.
>>> I
>>> have not been impressed with the variable ND, and it doesn’t get that much
>>> use. Most recently I bought a few of the Hoya Solas IRND filters.
>>>
>>> <https://hoyafilterusa.com/product/hoya-solas-irnd-2/>
>>
>> The variable ND allows me to compose without having to attach the filter
>> later.
> 
> That was my intention. However, I found that the Vari ND is susceptible to
> many of the issues that can be found with a CPF if you have the wrong angle
> of incidence. The worst of these is the cross polarization phenomenon. That
> is something which doesn’t happen with an ND, or ND Grad.

Before I got the variable ND, I used  tow polarized filters, one linear 
and the other my CP. It worked fine a lot of the time. But, under 
certain lighting conditions there was internal flare. Also, unlike good 
quality ND filters, polarizing filters can cause a color shift.

I use a Heliopan.
<https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/765517-REG/Heliopan_707790_77...


> 
>> I only use the fixed ND when it is very bright. It is a ten stop.
> 
> A 10 stop ND is a pretty serious ND, you should only need it if you are
> trying to slow down the shutter speed for a long exposure, smooth out water
> in waterfalls, or surf, or add movement to clouds, and/or if you are trying
> to control DoF, especially if shooting wide open in bright light.

Spot on. BTW there are other methods for smoothing water. multiple 
exposure works fine. You can get a nice silky effect from many 
waterfalls by shooting 1/5 to 1/50 of a second, depending on conditions 
and your taste.
> 
> With a 10 stop ND you will not be able to focus with the filter in place, so
> you should be focusing manually, and then attach the 10 ND filter. With screw
> on ND filters I have 2 stop, 4 stop, and 9 stop. I cannot focus with the 9
> stop in place. I have a 10 stop Lee.
> 
> Also if it is very bright, there are other steps you can take rather than
> resorting to a 10 stop ND, consider shooting at ISO 100, or ISO 200 and st a
> higher shutter speed, along with a more reasonable ND, somewhere in the 2-6
> stop area.
>>
>> In another post I mentioned that I was advised by B&H not to purchase an
>> item. It was any of the Lee type filters. I had wanted to get a
>> graduated ND filter. Watchagonnado.
> 
> What “Lee type filters”?

The sales rep made it clear that no plastic filter would give me the 
satisfactory results.

> There are Lee filters, and there are other square, and rectangular filter
> systems from other manufacturers, all of different quality. The most
> ubiquitous and least expensive are the Cokin resin filters. Perhaps it was a
> case of the B&H rep understanding that the square and/or rectangular filter
> systems were not suitable for your type of shooting.

Yes, his suggestive was that I go back to an old wet darkroom method. 
Dodge the really light areas, using black cardboard or my hands. There 
is a lot of trial and error, but it works. After a while I got a sense 
of how long to dodge. And with the dynamic range of my camera, 
corrections can be made in post.

> 
> BTW: You can get screw on grad filters, I have a few of those

They work great, if you like every image to have a similar look, and 
shooting conditions are always the same. The square graduated filters 
can be move vertically, within limits.


>>
>>
>>>
>>> I use the screw on filters for those times it is inconvenient to use the Lee
>>> ND and ND Grad system. The Lee system also includes a pretty good CPF. I use
>>> the Lee Seven5 system with my Fujifilm X-cameras.
>>>
>>> <http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/system-seven5>
> 

As we determined long ago, we have very different shooting styles, and 
tastes.


-- 
PeterN