Subject: Re: Stuck Filters
On 11/6/2017 4:27 PM, Savageduck wrote:
> On Nov 6, 2017, PeterN wrote
> (in article<firstname.lastname@example.org>):
>> On 11/6/2017 12:21 PM, Savageduck wrote:
>>> On Nov 6, 2017, PeterN wrote
>>> (in article<email@example.com>):
>>>> On 11/5/2017 1:11 AM, Savageduck wrote:
>>>>> Just go with a filter wrench, that is what they are designed for, and
>>>>> the hare-brained schemes.
>>>> The only filters I now use are: ND; variable ND; CP; and a variable fog.
>>>> I carry filter wrenches in my bag at all times, although I haven't had a
>>>> stuck filter in over ten years.
>>> When it comes to screw on filters I have ND, CPF, and only one Variable ND.
>>> have not been impressed with the variable ND, and it doesn’t get that much
>>> use. Most recently I bought a few of the Hoya Solas IRND filters.
>> The variable ND allows me to compose without having to attach the filter
> That was my intention. However, I found that the Vari ND is susceptible to
> many of the issues that can be found with a CPF if you have the wrong angle
> of incidence. The worst of these is the cross polarization phenomenon. That
> is something which doesn’t happen with an ND, or ND Grad.
Before I got the variable ND, I used tow polarized filters, one linear
and the other my CP. It worked fine a lot of the time. But, under
certain lighting conditions there was internal flare. Also, unlike good
quality ND filters, polarizing filters can cause a color shift.
I use a Heliopan.
>> I only use the fixed ND when it is very bright. It is a ten stop.
> A 10 stop ND is a pretty serious ND, you should only need it if you are
> trying to slow down the shutter speed for a long exposure, smooth out water
> in waterfalls, or surf, or add movement to clouds, and/or if you are trying
> to control DoF, especially if shooting wide open in bright light.
Spot on. BTW there are other methods for smoothing water. multiple
exposure works fine. You can get a nice silky effect from many
waterfalls by shooting 1/5 to 1/50 of a second, depending on conditions
and your taste.
> With a 10 stop ND you will not be able to focus with the filter in place, so
> you should be focusing manually, and then attach the 10 ND filter. With screw
> on ND filters I have 2 stop, 4 stop, and 9 stop. I cannot focus with the 9
> stop in place. I have a 10 stop Lee.
> Also if it is very bright, there are other steps you can take rather than
> resorting to a 10 stop ND, consider shooting at ISO 100, or ISO 200 and st a
> higher shutter speed, along with a more reasonable ND, somewhere in the 2-6
> stop area.
>> In another post I mentioned that I was advised by B&H not to purchase an
>> item. It was any of the Lee type filters. I had wanted to get a
>> graduated ND filter. Watchagonnado.
> What “Lee type filters”?
The sales rep made it clear that no plastic filter would give me the
> There are Lee filters, and there are other square, and rectangular filter
> systems from other manufacturers, all of different quality. The most
> ubiquitous and least expensive are the Cokin resin filters. Perhaps it was a
> case of the B&H rep understanding that the square and/or rectangular filter
> systems were not suitable for your type of shooting.
Yes, his suggestive was that I go back to an old wet darkroom method.
Dodge the really light areas, using black cardboard or my hands. There
is a lot of trial and error, but it works. After a while I got a sense
of how long to dodge. And with the dynamic range of my camera,
corrections can be made in post.
> BTW: You can get screw on grad filters, I have a few of those
They work great, if you like every image to have a similar look, and
shooting conditions are always the same. The square graduated filters
can be move vertically, within limits.
>>> I use the screw on filters for those times it is inconvenient to use the Lee
>>> ND and ND Grad system. The Lee system also includes a pretty good CPF. I use
>>> the Lee Seven5 system with my Fujifilm X-cameras.
As we determined long ago, we have very different shooting styles, and